Godron-style Lapis Lazuli Signet Ring
Decorative Art / Jewelry, Finger Ring • Unidentified jewelry designer or luxury fashion house (in the style of Van Cleef & Arpels or Bulgari), mass-market luxury or custom goldsmith.
Style & Movement
Modernist with Classical influence; specifically 'Godron' or ribbed/fluted style typical of the high-jewelry aesthetic of the 1980s.
Medium & Technique
Yellow gold (likely 14k or 18k) and Lapis Lazuli; lost-wax casting, hand-polishing, and bezel setting. The lapis is a flat-top circular cabochon cut.
Creation Period
Late 20th Century (circa 1980s - 1990s)
Dimensions & Format
Approximately 20-25mm at the widest part of the head; circular ring format.
Subject Description
The ring features a deep blue lapis lazuli stone with visible golden pyrite inclusions, symbolizing wisdom and truth. The shank is decorated with oblique fluting (godron motif) that tapers away from the central bezel.
Condition & Value Assessment
Condition Assessment
Good to Very Good. The gold shows minor surface abrasions consistent with wear. The lapis lazuli appears intact with no visible major chips, though surface dullness may be present.
Estimated Market Value
USD $800 - $1,500 (depending on gold weight/purity and brand attribution)
Auction Estimate
USD $600 - $1,200
Provenance History
Unknown; likely private collection. No visible hallmarks or signatures are shown in the image, but such pieces were common in European and American luxury retail during the 1980s.
Art Historical Significance
Represents the trend of bold gold jewelry from the late 20th century, which moved away from delicate filigree toward heavy, sculptural, and tactile forms inspired by Greco-Roman architecture.
Notable Features
Distinctive diagonal 'godron' ribbing on the shank; high quality of lapis lazuli indicated by the saturated blue color and even distribution of pyrite.
Condition Issues
Light micro-scratching on the gold setting; typical sebum and lotion buildup in the crevices of the fluting and behind the stone setting.
Conservation Recommendations
Professional ultrasonic cleaning followed by light polishing. Avoid chemical exposure which could damage the porous lapis lazuli stone.