Buccellati Style Ruby and Gold Hinged Bangle

Decorative Art / Fine JewelryAttributed to the School of Buccellati; potentially an Italian workshop following the Mario Buccellati tradition.

Buccellati Style Ruby and Gold Hinged Bangle

Style & Movement

Mid-Century Italian Goldsmithing / Neo-Renaissance

Medium & Technique

18k Yellow Gold with a hand-engraved 'rigato' finish, set with round faceted natural rubies in starburst bezels. The technique involves delicate parallel lines engraved into the gold to create a silk-like texture.

Creation Period

Late 20th Century (circa 1970s-1990s)

Dimensions & Format

Approximately 2.5 inches inner diameter, 15-20mm width at front; circular hinged bangle format.

Subject Description

A luxury bracelet featuring a classic tapered bangle design. The central motif is defined by a deep 'rigato' engraved texture accented by raised gold rope-work and rubies. It represents characteristic Italian craftsmanship which emphasizes texture over high-polish shine.

Condition & Value Assessment

Condition Assessment

Very Good; the gold shows minor surface wear consistent with age, and the texture remains crisp. Rubies appear secure.

Estimated Market Value

$6,000 - $12,000 USD (depending on gold weight and confirmation of maker's marks)

Auction Estimate

$4,000 - $8,000 USD

Provenance History

Likely acquired through a high-end estate or private collection of fine European jewelry; no visible stamps in the photograph, but typical of Milanese or Florentine provenance.

Art Historical Significance

Significant as an example of post-war Italian luxury design. The 'rigato' technique is a hallmark of the Buccellati family, which revolutionized jewelry by treating precious metal like fine fabric.

Notable Features

The 'rigato' hand-etching is exceptionally fine, indicating a high-quality artisan. The use of rope-twist borders adds a sculptural quality characteristic of high-end Italian goldsmithing.

Condition Issues

Slight oxidation in deep grooves and minor micro-scratches on the interior clasp area.

Conservation Recommendations

Professional ultrasonic cleaning followed by a soft brush to remove dust from engravings. Store in a silk-lined box to avoid abrasion against other stones.

Identified on 6/7/2026