Must de Cartier Tank
Decorative Art and Horology, Vermeil Wristwatch • Cartier (House founded by Louis-François Cartier)
Style & Movement
Art Deco Revival; the Tank design is a classic 1917 industrial-inspired design.
Medium & Technique
Vermeil case (925 sterling silver with 20-micron gold plating), quartz movement, mineral glass crystal, sapphire-set cabochon crown, and leather strap.
Creation Period
Circa late 1970s to 1980s
Dimensions & Format
Approximately 20mm x 28mm (Ladies Size), Portrait format case.
Subject Description
A rectangular horological piece featuring a classic 'Tank' case design with parallel brancards, a guilloché-patterned gold-tone dial, black Roman numeral hour markers, and blued-steel sword-shaped hands.
Condition & Value Assessment
Condition Assessment
Good/Fair. The dial shows significant discoloration or patina (the 'lemon' or 'gold' hue) common for Must de Cartier pieces of this era.
Estimated Market Value
$1,000 - $1,800 USD
Auction Estimate
$800 - $1,500 USD
Provenance History
Likely sourced from a private estate; 'Must de Cartier' line was introduced in 1973 to reach a broader luxury market through boutiques and high-end department stores.
Art Historical Significance
The Tank watch is one of the most iconic designs in luxury history, representing Cartier's shift toward geometric modernism. The 'Must' collection saved Cartier during the 1970s quartz crisis by democratizing luxury while maintaining brand prestige.
Notable Features
The distinctive blue cabochon-cut spinel or sapphire in the winding crown and the 'Must de Cartier' signature on the center-aligned dial.
Condition Issues
Visible tarnishing or 'crazing' on the dial, possible wear to the gold plating on the lugs and case edges, and aged leather strap.
Conservation Recommendations
Professional movement servicing, replacement of the mineral crystal if scratched, and ultrasonic cleaning of the case; avoid over-polishing to preserve vermeil plating.